Monday, March 26, 2007

Provence, Provence!

This weekend was the optional weekend trip to Provence led by my art history teacher, Mme Moll, a semi-batty old woman who is nevertheless very entertaining and endearing.

Friday, March 23

We met at 9:45 a.m. at Gare de Lyon, and then got on the TGV together to head for Avignon. It was a group of about 20 students, Mme Moll, Bertrand (field trip organizer guy) and the directrice of IES Paris, a woman whose name I... do not know. But she's nice. Mark, Allie, Lindsey and I all got a compartment of seats facing each other to ourselves, so that was nice. We chatted, read, listened to iPods, and napped during the 2 1/2 hour journey.

The train was a nice bullet-train ride and got us to Avignon around 1. We met our tour bus there and it took us into town and dropped us off to find lunch. We only had like 20 minutes to do so, and almost all of us ended up at this little boulangerie and got sandwiches which we ate mostly on the way back to the bus. Then we went to Uzès where we walked through the village to get to the Duché (duchy), the house of this family of dukes where--get this--the title extends to this day! That's right, the latest Duke of this family is like 10 years old and he'll come live in the house full-time one day! Isn't that insane?

We had a guided tour of the duchy and it was pretty funny because our guide, this fairly officious guy, and Mme Moll were totally duking (aha ha ha) it out the whole time. He'd tell us something and she'd be all "Oh, can I interrupt?" and talk to us some more about something, usually something not even all that significant, and he'd just look like "Yes, well. Anyway. Here we have..." and it kept happening and was so funny. It's not even like she was deliberately trying to show him up, it's just her crazy nature. Ahaha Mme Moll, you so crazy.

Oh, and before the guided tour we'd climbed up an eternity of steps in this tower thing that was part of the complex and reached the top where it was veeeery windy but we could see all out over the town.





After that we got back on the bus and went to Arles, where we would be staying during the trip. Arles is one of the towns van Gogh stayed in for a period of his life and where he painted "Starry Night" and that one of the cafe at night, among others. It also has some Roman ruins, chiefly a big Colosseum-esque thing called the Amphitheatre. Our hotel was named after it, Hôtel de l'Amphithéatre, and it was a REALLY nice hotel. When you travel with IES, they do go all out! Lindsey and I were roommates (Allie went with 3 other girls and Mark roomed with the only other boy on the trip, haha); our room was so cute and nice, great stone tiled floor, everything.

Once we arrived we had about 30 minutes to just relax before dinner, and we were all starving. Dinner was at this place called Restaurant la Comédie, and it was amazing. Due to seating difficulties, our group of 4 was divided, with Lindsey and Allie at one end and Mark and I at the other, but it was fine, we all had some good conversations. We got to pick our entree, main course, and dessert. For my entree I picked a salad with duck, which was maybe a mistake, because although I was lured in by the presence of duck, this wasn't normal roasted or whatever duck, it was raw strips that had been acidized with lemon or something to be made safe to eat. So it was like eating raw meat--not my favorite thing ever exactly. I had some, but couldn't finish it. The salad part was really good though. For the main course I had a pasta carbonara, and for dessert I can't remember but it was something goood. yum. Also, even though they're not usually supposed to, IES let us have wine with our dinner, the rosé the Provence region is famous for. It was pretty good too.

Saturday, March 24

After breakfast at our hotel in the morning (yumm, all sorts of bread products + hot chocolate! The kind where they give you hot milk and cacao powder and you mix it yourself!), we headed out with the rest of the group to go to this market in Arles, which was soooo cool. Provence markets are pretty well-known for being awesome, and this one did not disappoint. All kinds of foodstuffs, then craftswork, and ahh, it was so cute and great.




Arles amphitheatre (Roman ruins!).

Around 10:30 we headed out for Saint-Rémy, another famous van Gogh place, as it's the village where you can find the asylum monastery St. Paul de Mausole where he stayed from 1889-1890, you know, that OFFICIALLY crazy period of his life. It actually is still used as an asylum to this day, though the part that we visited wasn't part of that. We saw, if not the actual room van Gogh stayed in, then one made to look like his (because they don't know just which one was his, and he probably moved around a lot) and a lot of informatory boards about what life was like there. Probably the coolest thing, though, was seeing the actual landscapes and things he painted. Like the olive trees, those were INSTANTLY recognizable, and so cool to see.


Look familiar?


Haha, Mark and Lindsey were really excited about the van Gogh statue there.


A room styled to look like van Gogh's.


More olive trees.

After that we had free lunch in the village of Saint-Rémy, and we found this cute little restaurant and decided to have a nice lunch there. I got steak frites (yumm) and we got some carafes of wine, rosé and red, to share. It was pretty amazing.

From there we went to Aix-en-Provence, where you'll find Cézanne's studio and a lot of important architectural things. So you can bet Mme Moll had a field day showing us all the very significant architectural details. First we saw Cézanne's studio, which is pretty cool, just a cute little house and you can go in and see the second-floor room where he painted many of his works. Outside is a little patio (a cat was there!) and a gardens-type area that some of us went into even though we "didn't have time."




Cat chillin at Cézanne's



From the studio, on a hill, we walked down into the town, following the path Cézanne would have taken every time he went into town. That was when Mme Moll got her chance to show us all the architecture stuff, church facades and interiors so forth. At one point it was pretty hilarious because she wanted to show us this room where they were about to have a wedding, and all the people in there were like "No, you can't come in with a tour, a wedding is about to happen!" and Mme Moll is all "It'll be fast, don't worry" and told us some stuff about it and then as we were leaving the building complex, a limo pulls up in front accompanied by a crowd, and we pretty much can't get out without getting in the way of the wedding, so we had to stand (this group of like 25 tourists) off to one side of the foyer while the bride and groom and their party parade in and we're just standing there like, AWKWARD! It was so funny because it just represented Mme Moll's amusing persistence at all times.



After that we had some free time and went on what turned out to be a wild goose chase for this gelato place Lindsey had seen, and in the end some of us got pizza from a stand instead, and then met back up with the group to go to the Musée Granet, where not a single actual work by Cézanne could be found, disappointing many of us (I guess because all of them are in Florence!).



After that it was back on the bus to head back to Arles, and dinnerrr. This time it was at a place that served a Provençal specialty, tartines, which is toasted bread with cheese and other stuff melted onto them. This time I went with the duck choice again, but it was good this time, actually cooked duck. The tartines were a little greasy, but pretty good. Dessert was amazing, too, I got chocolate cake. mmmm


Place in Arles where van Gogh painted Terrasse du café le soir, Place du forum, Arles (Cafe Terrace at Night).

Sunday, March 25

Lindsey and I overslept so we didn't have time to eat all of breakfast (grabbed some rolls and such though), but we packed up fast and joined the group. After stopping by the Arles amphitheatre and poking around there (with a group of Japanese tourists, haha)...



...we went to the Fondation Van Gogh, which is this museum that houses works by artists of all nationalities who have made works inspired in some way by van Gogh or his paintings. It was pretty interesting to see, not all that fascinating though.

After that we got back on the bus to go back to Avignon, and from there got our TGV back to Paris. yay Provence!

Thursday, March 22, 2007

Kathryn Visits!

Kathryn, one of my Austin College friends who's studying abroad in Florence this semester, was here this past week! It was wonderful.

Wednesday, March 21

Kathryn and two of her friends, Lindsay and Ashley (also her flatmates, both also studying abroad in Florence with her) arrived in Paris from Barcelona and I went to meet them at their hotel after I got done with classes, around 4:30 or 5. Kathryn and I chatted in the lobby of their hotel while her friends finished their naps, and once everyone was down we set out to get in some sightseeing. It was dinnertime, so we rode the Métro (apparently, Florence is done by foot, with no need of a Métro, so I kinda had to show them how to do it!) over to the Saint-Michel area (when we emerged from the train, I made sure to take the Notre Dame exit so there it would be right in front of them!) and I took them to my favorite little restaurant in the Latin Quarter, Creperie de Cluny. We got the 8-euro meal where you get a galette of your choice, a dessert (crepes or ice cream) and cider. PRETTY MUCH AMAZING. Mmmm galettes are sooo goood. We all got the egg/cheese/ham one (une galette complète). I had coffee ice cream for dessert. And of course Breton cider is just great (me: "Now, this is alcoholic cider." Lindsay: "Good, I need a little something to take the edge off!"). I like Brittany a lot, I think, I'm so glad I got to visit it when my mom was here. Everyone loved the food and was so glad I was there to show them this place so they didn't just end up at some random cafe/McDonald's! Haha.

From there we walked to Shakespeare & Company, which everyone loved of course. yay Shakespeare & Company. Then we tried to go to Notre Dame, but it closes at 6:45 and they asked us for tickets at the door! I was so surprised. "On a besoin de billets?!" "Bien sûr!" hahah. But they did see the exterior and I think they got to it on Friday. So we just went ahead and started walking to the Louvre, which is open late on Wednesdays. That's normally a fairly nice walk (you pass by the flower shops and pet stores), but it had gotten dark so it was mostly windy and cold. Still fine, though, and we walked along the Seine and everything.

When we got to the Louvre Kathryn's friends bought tickets (I could get Kathryn in free, though, with my pass, so she didn't have to!) and we headed right for (of course) the Denon wing, where the three big works of art are located. We took the back way to the Mona Lisa (kind of by accident!) so that was the first thing we hit up. Then Winged Victory, then Vénus de Milo (still in her own special room due to the renovations going in in her usual home). Then, the eternal quandary for tourists: what to do after you have seen all these? WHERE TO GO NEXT?? oh, what to do. After checking out some of the nearby paintings (I finally located "Madonna on the Rocks"! Of Da Vinci Code fame, haha. You know... Mary's hands DO look like scary claws in it!), we walked out through the Egyptian section (I missed showing them the CAT MUMMIES, but I did show them the menu board hee), saw the crown jewels in the room off Vénus de Milo's and then headed for the Napoléon III apartments. Still hilariously over-gilded and just so ostentatiously awesome. All the objets d'art in that section are really cool, too. I think I'm a huge sucker for old royal artifacts. I loved Versailles and that is probably why. I need to go to many more châteaux!

After that, the museum was closing down, so we tried to get out--but we couldn't! No seriously. The direct-to-Métro exit was closed off for some reason (I guess it was too late), so were two other ones. Finally we got out and I had no idea where the outside Métro entrance was! But we found it... and then I tried to enter the turnstile and my ticket wouldn't work. What? It was so weird. But I think that's what screwed up my ticket for the next few days. Some other weird stuff was happening, other people couldn't get in either. Very strange. But we all crawled under the turnstiles in the end (the others didn't even have tickets cause we went in via an entrance that didn't pass a ticket window) and made it home.

Thursday, March 22

On Thursday I went to translation and then met up with Kathryn and her friends in Montmartre afterwards, around 11:30. I had gotten directions from Clay on how to go to the Amélie cafe so I took them there for breakfast/lunch. It was AMAZINGGGGG. They filmed the cafe scenes in Amelie in this cafe, Les 2 Moulins (right up the street from the Moulin Rouge, which we passed on the way, my first time for that!), and now it is a mini tourist spot--as evidenced by the huge group of Japanese tourists I saw right when we walked in, haha.



We all got the brunch set, which was AWESOME. It came with their excellent fresh-squeezed orange juice, a hot beverage of choice (we all got hot chocolate), scrambled eggs, sausage, a strip of "bacon," a salad, carrot coleslaw, and fries. SO. GOOD. Then for dessert--crème brulée!! amazingggg. 13.90 euros but soooo worth it. :D We loved it.


Kathryn and I in front of the café's Amélie poster.

From there we walked to Sacré Coeur, passing through Pigalle, the red-light district!! It's pretty hilarious there. Sex shops and strip clubs lining the street... I can only imagine what it looks like at night, not that I would ever go then! Now I have walked through two cities' red-light districts in the daytime (did Tokyo's Kabuki-cho that way too), how exciting for me. Of course when we got to Sacré Coeur, there were the African guys staking out every possible way of going up the steps trying to entice people to make a bracelet with them. I hate this stupid scam, and I couldn't believe people were actually doing it. They have strings and they bother you as you walk past, asking you if you want to make a bracelet. So they weave it with you for about 5 minutes, then when it is done they say "Okay, here you go. 5 euros, please." OH, WHAT?! 5 euros for a crappy bracelet??? no way. So I couldn't BELIEVE the amount of clueless people I saw actually making the bracelets with them. Ridiculous. Of course, when we tried to go past them, one guy followed us, heckling one of Kathryn's friends. I finally shouted "Arrêtez!!" but it's not like it actually chastised him, though he did stop. Ugh. I will probably never go to Sacré Coeur again while I am here because of that. Then outside the church, the gypsies dressed up as Muslim women begging! I see right through all your schemes. grrrr

The view was amazing once you climb the steps, though, as it always is, and we took pictures. :)



Then we walked inside the church and back down the steps. For some reason, one of Kathryn's friends wanted to see the opera house, so we went to Opéra and... checked that out. Seriously, all we did was walk around the outside--you can go inside and see some gold stuff or other, but it costs money. I did discover that's where the Galeries de Lafayette are, though, which I didn't know. I don't really know why she wanted to go there, it is just a big fancy opera house, but, y'know, whatever! [Later I found out it's the home of the Phantom of the Opera! I never knew that took place in Paris! cooooollllll!] From there, we Métro'd over to the Champs Elysées and walked up it to the Arc de Triomphe. I had never actually gone up to it before, but there is a very convenient underground passage that takes you beneath the traffic. It is pretty huge when you're standing right under it!!

From there we walked to the Eiffel Tower (going through the 16th, my HOOD), and I made sure to take us the way that I am convinced is the best way to walk up to the Eiffel Tower: through the Palais de Chaillot. You walk up some steps and suddenly you are out onto this wide platform lined with golden statues and the tower before you and it is breathtaking. They were all just "Oh, my god!" because, yeah, THERE IT IS just being its awesome Eiffel Tower self. Plus, there's a very nice place along the way to stop and take pictures, which we did (my first time! I probably needed pictures like that anyway, though).












And a crow for Bekah.

Then we walked the whole length of the Champ de Mars in order to get to an area that would sell us some bread, cheese, and wine, so we could walk all the way back and eat it while looking at the tower (Kathryn's idea). They really need booths selling that in the park so you don't have to walk foreverrr in order to do it (Kathryn told me I should open one, haha)... but yeah, we did it, and I got Boursin garlic cheese which everyone loved. The bread, being simply from Franprix, kinda sucked, but they didn't know any better actually (gasp!! How can people not recognize what is and isn't good bread! I am shocked).

After that I had to go to Japanese class (we have a new teacher but Satoko was so awesome she can't possibly replace her!), and then I met them at their hotel on my way home (where they were staying was actually on my way home from Japanese class, because both are in Montmartre). I could only chat for a short time because I had to go home and back, but I gave them directions on how to go to Versailles (their plan for the next day) and said goodbye. It wasn't too sad though cause I'll see them in 2 weeks when I get to Florence. They said they'd show me around, and my hostel is just down the street from their apartment, so it's gonna be nice :) A very nice couple of days showing them around, and seeing Kathryn who I hadn't seen since January was wonderful!!

Monday, March 19, 2007

Weekend in Brussels, Belgium

This weekend we took our first excursion outside of Paris and went to Brussels, Belgium! It was a very last-minute trip, we only bought our bus tickets and made hotel reservations a few days before departure!

Friday, March 16

Mark and McKenzie had gone on ahead and left Thursday, but since I didn't want to miss my Thursday night Japanese class and Allie had her field placement Friday morning, we took the 3:00 Friday bus together and met them in Brussels. The bus ride was fairly uneventful; we had to wait a while at the La Défense bus station though, before we started, and during that time the bus driver talked to us (in French) and it was interesting. He told us stuff we had to do while we were there, like go to Bruges.

We arrived in Brussels Friday night and had to make our way from one station on the tram system down to another station, which was interesting because we got there and everything was in French and Dutch, and Dutch is so strange looking when you're not prepared for it, and that was a little overwhelming. The Brussels tram system is confusing too, there's like a million different lines and the maps look so crazy. Fortunately Allie was thinking and we were able to just ride one line several stops down and get to the right station. Once we got there, we called our hotel and they sent us a shuttle bus to come get us, which was good because it turns out that hotel is in THE SEEDIEST PART OF TOWN. aaahhhhhh, what a TERRIBLE location! The hotel itself was mostly fine, but you just couldn't walk around there after dark, which is kind of a problem if you want to actually... leave. It's called the Hotel Van Belle--never ever EVER stay there, even if it's the cheapest option. Not worth it.

So we called Mark and McKenzie and went to their room--a hilarious ghetto affair in the creaky ATTIC of the hotel, with a shower/bathroom not even attached to the room, but down the hallway. Considering my and Allie's room is way nice with an attached bathroom, I didn't really get this. Mark and McKenzie promptly told us what had happened to them today, and in summary, Brussels is a crazy, crazy place. They also confirmed the seedy location of our hotel. They'd explored the city that day and were full of crazy stories about how weird it is here.

Saturday, March 17

We had breakfast in our hotel in the morning (it was free, a buffet, and fairly good, one of the few good points about that hotel) and then set off for Bruges, a small town a train ride away from Brussels that's supposed to be beautiful. We got our tickets at the train station and then just hopped on! The ride was about 45 minutes and then we were there, it was a great sunny cool day and we immediately found this nice park area with a river and just sat on the banks relaxing there.


Bike rack outside the station. Crazy!


By the river

After that we wandered the town. There's a church there with a sculpture by Michelangelo in it, one of the few outside Italy, so that was cool. We had fries at a restaurant (they are Belgian, you know), walked around checking out souvenir shops, had waffles (mmm) somewhere else, and bought boxes of chocolate at a chocolate shop on our way out. Mmmm, Belgium produces so many good things, I love it!


Friiieesss...




Swans!


Waffles!

Around 5 or so we headed back to Brussels and set out to find a nice Irish pub to settle into (it was, after all, St Patrick's Day). After walking through la Grande Place (one of like, two "things to see" in Brussels, basically this big plaza with a lot of official government buildings you can't go into):


...we found one that wasn't too crowded and got dinner there too along with Hoegaarden, Belgian beer (which is really good!). Allie and I split a hamburger and fries and it was DELICIOUS. The fries just melted in my mouth. So gooood...

We stayed there a bit longer but were disconcerted to notice that by 8:30 the place had more or less emptied out. What in the world!! It's St Patrick's Day, and the Irish pubs are cleared out by 8:30??? We could not figure it out at all! Just another reason why Brussels is a weird, weird place...

Sunday, March 18

Our last day in Brussels, and Allie and I still hadn't seen much of the city itself, so we set out to find some places (after breakfast and checking out--the hotel let us keep our bags in a side room). Unfortunately it was raining steadily and we only had two umbrellas for the 4 of us. Kind of miserable. The places we wanted to go to (a record store and a thrift shop) were all closed too, being Sunday. We did go see the statue of the peeing kid, the OTHER "thing to do in Brussels." We took refuge in this cafe which turned out actually to be really cool, with these awesome decorations and tile mosaics in the basement bathroom area. The seats were cushions on benches, it was great. After that it had mostly stopped raining and we went back to get our bags and then walk to the station. We had to walk through this flea market by the station, it was crazy. Then we had to figure out the trams again, but we did it, and got to the Eurolines bus area with like an hour or so to spare. Then bus ride home to Paris.

The most important thing this trip did was make me realize just how good I have it in Paris, and made me appreciate Paris a 100 times more. Before that I had been yearning to get away, thinking I was so sick of Paris, but after going to Brussels which is seriously such a horrible depressing place (though we made the best of it and had fun), I woke up to how awesome Paris truly is. I will never doubt you again, Paris!
(However, upon returning to Paris, I DID realize that there was one museum in Brussels I really wanted to go to, because it has a painting that a poem I like was written about, and I completely didn't know it was there and didn't go!!!)

Wednesday, March 07, 2007

The Mommy Visit

My mommy was here this past week! We had so much fun and did so many cool things. :)

Thursday, March 1

Her flight got in around 11 a.m., so I went to French class in the morning and then left immediately after to go meet her at the airport. I had to take RER B to Charles de Gaulle and then get on a little airport shuttle bus to take me to the terminal her flight arrived at. But once I got there, there she was waiting! Yay Mommy!!

She already had her bags so we just withdrew some euro cash from the ATM and then made our way back into Paris. Her hotel (called Au Palais de Chaillot Hotel) was in the 16th, very close to me, which was her goal, and it was easily accessible off Trocadéro, one of my Métro stops (I've recently discovered that Rue de la Pompe on line 9 is actually even closer, so I rarely use Trocadéro anymore, but I can still walk from it if I want). So after much carrying of heavy suitcases up many flights of stairs (poor tired Mommy!), we got to her hotel.

I had originally been thinking I'd still go to my history field trip for that day, which began at 2:30 and would end at 5, but by the time we got to the hotel it was 2 and I'd have to dash off. I decided to skip it and spend the rest of the day with her. In hindsight, still a good decision, because I got to spend time with Mommy, but that visit was kind of important on the midterm and my presence would have helped my grade there. But oh well!

So we walked down to this café right in Place du Trocadéro, called Le Malakoff, and since it was a sunny day (still chilly though) there were lots of people sitting outside and we sat outside too. We had croque monsieurs, that ever-typical Parisian café food ;)

After that, we walked quite literally across the street to the Palais de Chaillot which leads up to the Eiffel Tower. It's just such an amazing view when you step out onto that platform lined with gold statues and the tower is right there before you! Even though I'd been using Trocadéro as my stop every day so I'd seen that area so many times before, I'd never gone over there, or even that close to the Eiffel Tower, before, so that was my first time doing that, and when Mom and Dad were in Paris a couple years ago they came from the Champs de Mars direction so she hadn't been this way either. Needless to say, it was wonderful!

So we walked along the little path until we got to the tower, and then we decided spur-of-the-moment to join the line for walking up the stairs of the tower, since it was short, and we did that. How tiring!! Climbing all those stairs is hard work, and we only went to the first level you can climb to! And it was so windy and cold once we finally did get up there, but it was so cool to be there. They have all these displays on how the tower works and its history which were cool to see. I contemplated sending postcards from the post office there but didn't in the end. We could have climbed to the next level from there but we were tired and we knew it would be even colder up there so we just went back down.

Once down, we wandered around the Champs de Mars for a bit looking for a close Métro stop (there really isn't one, which is a problem they need to fix. The "closest" stops are both not exactly adjacent to the tower and require searching to find) and in the end just walked back to Trocadéro station and used that to go to the Latin Quarter, since I wanted to look for some books I wanted and so we went to Gibert Jeune's papeterie and then upper levels searching for a bit (I found one thing but not the others). After that we wanted to sit down somewhere, so I took her to Creperie de Cluny, my favorite little crepe-based Breton-style restaurant, ahh, such cozy booths there. We had ice cream and hot chocolate. It was around 6 by that point and she was tired so I wrote her some directions so she could get home from there and then stayed myself finishing my Japanese homework, then (before a brief stop at Joseph Gibert to search for the other book, which I found! Haruki Murakami's Le passage de la nuit, French translation of an originally Japanese book [English translation not out yet], to test my French reading skills) went to Japanese class (at 7:15) and then home to bed after that.

Friday, March 2

This day was completely filled with a whirlwind sightseeing tour of Paris! It was crazy, we did so much, and much of it was a review for Mom, but some things were new for both of us and it was really fun.

I met Mom by her hotel at 8 a.m., I believe, so we could have breakfast together. We found a café close by and had the typical French breakfast, coffee and a croissant. It was the first time I'd sat down and done that and it was really fun. After that we hopped on the Métro and rode the 2 straight to Sacré Coeur, where neither of us had been yet. We walked up the side roads and got to the base of la Butte, the big hill the basilica is on. It was still early so there weren't many other people there yet and we began the climb up the hill. It was indeed a lot of steps but so worth it to see the increasingly amazing views of the city before you as you do it. We tried to find the Eiffel Tower and the 16th, but realized they're on the other side of the city you see from the steps, and they weren't there.



We made it to the top and went inside the church. Very peaceful and nicely decorated indeed, but still can't top my favorite St Etienne du Mont! By the time we got back outside, there were many more people there and at the bottom were these skeevy-looking African guys just starting to set up their scamming. We watched the police come chase one group of them off, which was entertaining. I was also highly interested by the presence of a "Funiculaire" (funicular) operated by Paris's public transportation that takes visitors who don't want to/can't climb the steps up the Butte. But it was broken and in the process of repair. I would have really liked to ride it! Those things are so fun!

From there we set out to explore Montmartre, as neither of us had really been there before. I wanted to find the artists' areas and other things like that, but we didn't exactly come prepared. We had some guidebooks and maps, sure, and tried to figure things out from that, but it would have been better if I had known exactly where the things I wanted to go to were. The road we took just led us down this really long market street, and supposedly passed by this Athens place that the guidebook said was really cool, but we barely noticed it. Seeing the markets and such was cool though, but before we knew it we were at the back of Notre Dame de Lorette, the church that just happens to be right across from where my Japanese classes are! We had reached that part of Montmartre without even trying!! It was kind of hilarious how that happened completely by accident.

From there we set out to find these covered passageway things mentioned in the guidebook that sounded really cool to me, and we did find them. They're simply covered pathways lined with shops on the inside, shops selling antique-style toys, cute knickknacks, art, stuff like that. We went into one of the old toy stores and it was pretty cute there. It's also where the wax museum is. We emerged onto the other side and decided we were done with Montmartre and it was time to go somewhere else. So we hopped on the Métro and went over to the Latin Quarter so I could show Mom Shakespeare & Company.

When we got there, however, it was closed, since it wasn't noon yet. So we walked across the street to Notre Dame, just looking at the exterior, and then crossed over to the island next to the island Notre Dame is on (Ile de la Cité), called Ile Saint Louis, since neither of us had been there and wanted to explore it. It's a very cute, quiet mostly residential area, lots of apartments and shops. We were looking for a café to have lunch in, though, and found literally NONE. We had to walk all the way to the other end, the Rive Droite, to find something. (There are many restaurants but they all looked really expensive!) We found a nice-looking café and had lunch there. I should mention that I wasn't feeling very good at all at this point, and didn't really know what to do. Fortunately, after getting some food in me, I pretty much perked back up. I had a salad with hard-boiled eggs in it, another café staple. It was a nice simple little meal.

Then we walked back through Ile Saint Louis so we could get gelato ice cream at "one of the best places for ice cream in Paris," Berthillon (I'm pretty sure it was that one and not one of the others, but I'm not positive). I picked cherry which didn't thrill me, however, but oh well, other flavors might be better.

Shakespeare & Company was open after that, so we crossed the river and went there next. Of course, it was great, and we explored around there for a bit.


The cat was there! Kitty!

Then we went deeper into the Latin Quarter to go to the Panthéon and St-Etienne-du-Mont close by. We went over to St-Etienne first, but it was closed and wouldn't open until 2:30 or so, so we just did the Panthéon first. You have to pay to get into the Panthéon, but it was so worth it. We saw the Foucault pendulum (so cool!), all the cool paintings and statues around the interior, and then went down into the crypts. That was the coolest part! I didn't know all those people were buried there! Like Alexandre Dumas, Emile Zola, Victor Hugo, Pierre & Marie Curie (who both Mom and I had learned about in school so it was so cool to see their tombs), etc etc. Just amazing.


Mommy inside the Panthéon

After that we went over to St-Etienne-du-Mont, which was open, and I had been hoping and hoping the organ would be playing like it was on the first time I went there for our history visit, and at first it wasn't, but then it started! It wasn't the same cool moving music I'd heard before, but it was still the organ, and it just sounded awesome. Church organs are so cool, I've decided. I love that church!





From there we wandered a little and found ourselves close to the Luxembourg gardens, so we got a raspberry tart and Orangina from a nice pastry shop across the street and then went into the gardens and sat outside the fountain pool where the kids can push boats around and had a snack. It was so lovely, if windy, and the tart was delicious. yum yum yum

We hopped on the RER from there and rode it one stop to the Musée d'Orsay stop and did that. Mom had loved that museum when she was here before so she was perfectly content to be left on the fifth floor with the Impressionist paintings and wander. I went in search of the Steinlen cat paintings (including the famous "Chat Noir" print) that are SUPPOSEDLY here according to the gift shop, so I must have traversed that entire museum from top to bottom, front to back, and not found a single thing. I did discover that the graphic art section is currently down to host a special exhibition, and they may be in the graphic art section. I don't know. I really want to see those paintings, though, and I have no idea where they are!!

I also saw Olympia, which I missed on my first time somehow, which was cool since I wrote a Manet paper for my French class spring of sophomore year.

After that we walked over to the Louvre. It was starting to drizzle a little but nothing too bad. Once we got to the Louvre I could get Mom in free with my card, so that was nice. Before we saw the art we took a break and had dinner in the Carrousel du Louvre food court, the Italian place, and I have since realized that all those places serve terrible overpriced food so I don't recommend anyone to eat there, ever.

Then we wandered the Louvre, seeing the three big things again and then the Napoléon III apartments, and after that we were pretty exhausted (we did a lot that day!!!) so we headed home then.

Saturday, March 3

On Saturday we had our day trip to Brittany, so we got up early to go to the Gare Montparnasse and catch our 7:05 TGV train to Rennes. I was excited about the TGV, since it's France's equivalent of the Japanese shinkansen bullet trains, but somehow it just wasn't as cool as that, I don't know how. The seats were more cramped than I'd expected, for one. But we had our train food, pastries and water/orange juice, and it's always fun to eat on a long train ride.

When we got to Rennes, our driver was waiting for us. I'd arranged one of those tours you can do (Westcapades), and although it wasn't private, it was the off-season so we were the only ones there. Our driver, Marc, gave us a bunch of information about Brittany and talked to us about the region and the cities we were going to on the drive, then dropped us off at the first town, Dinan, this cute little once-medieval town with a beautiful small harbor at its base. We climbed up the cobblestone steps and found this adorable--yet still alive, unlike Provins--town, which it was so fun to explore. We just wandered all over, seeing churches and shops and all sorts of things. Then we went to the wall and looked out over the harbor below us, what a great view!


Mommy and I at the harbor below the town


Climbing the road up to the town

We met Marc at the tourist office and from there he took us to Saint-Malo, another once-medieval walled city situated right on the Brittany coast, called the Emerald Coast. It's a popular tourist spot for British people, since it's so close, and because the region of Brittany is closely connected to Britain with Celtic roots anyway (I think it's so cool!). So we had lunch there, galettes and cider yummm, and then walked all around the top of the wall surrounding the city.


People had written stuff in the sand...





As you can see, we had beautiful views of the beach below us, if we'd had more time it would have been fun to walk down there. But we had to go back and meet Marc so he could take us to...

Le Mont Saint-Michel!! Actually, after the other two towns, this one was almost a letdown even though it was our goal in taking this trip. It is just so crowded and touristy! It's still really cool, but wooww, full of people. We pulled up to a parking lot already filled with other tourist buses, bunches of Asian tourists milling about, just insanity. Climbing up to the entrance to the monastery was insane. Then of course it was fairly expensive to get in. It was pretty cool to see, especially all the old special rooms and the ancient machinery they used to use, but both of us kind of felt that the other towns had been even better. Of course, it is pretty awesome that they probably used Le Mont Saint-Michel as a base for designing the city of Minas Tirith in the Lord of the Rings movies!







After we finished the tour of the monastery we had some time so we explored the areas around there, there's a cemetery and some benches that you can look out over the streets at the base, and we sat on one and ate the fudge we'd gotten in Dinan. yummm. Finally we braved the crowds at the bottom again to get gifts to give to my host family. We got a bottle of cider and Mere Poulard cookie things. As we were leaving, we found our way blocked--by a parade!! Since we arrived we'd seen people dressed up in strange costumes that looked like medieval graduation gowns in various colors, but had no idea what they were doing there. Turns out there was some sort of convention at the monastery that night, and they were all gathering there, so they had a parade up the hill. There were bagpipe players, each group carrying its banner (with names like "The Brotherhood of the Rose" hahaha) and wearing its special colors. I have no idea what those things were all about but it was highly entertaining!

After that was over we could get out, so we met our driver (we had to schedule our depart before the tides came in, of course!) and he took us back to the Rennes train station, where we caught our TGV back to Paris and went, exhausted, to bed.

Sunday, March 4

We set out around 8:30 or so to Versailles, and it was a lovely day. We took RER C there and got to sit on the second floor of a double-decker train, which was awesome. Once we got to the station it wasn't hard at all to find Versailles (just follow the crowds) and after some confusion we got in the line to get in. It turns out, Versailles was free that day! Because it was the first Sunday of the month. So we'd been trying to buy tickets when it turns out it was just free! Awesome. We were there early so the line hadn't gotten too long yet, and we could go in soon. We saw everything: the chapel, the Opera, the King and Queen's apartments, the mythology-themed salons, the War and Peace rooms, and even the Hall of Mirrors (though it was scaffolded and thus robbed of its beauty and I was disappointed).




I saw the Japanese tourists doing it and had to do it for myself!

We also signed up for a tour to see the parts of the castle that aren't available on the normal tour, and went off to explore the gardens in the meantime, which were, of course, beautiful, although the statues along the path were still covered up with tarps for the winter. We walked down to where the little restaurants are on the right and had lunch in the less expensive one, which still turned out to be delicious. But then again, I got chicken nuggets and fries like a 10 year old ;)



From there we walked to the Grand Trianon, the little mini-castle the royals built to escape to, and it was amazingggg. I love the furniture in all of those rooms, each room had a different color stuffing and it was so pretty and cute. Then we walked to the Petit Trianon, Marie-Antoinette's little house, and explored the gardens by that house and Marie-Antoinette's "hamlet" she had built so she could pretend to be a shepherdess with her friends (it was in fashion at the time). It was all so cool to see!


Trianon gardens


Marie-Antoinette's hamlet


Ducks!

When we'd done all that, though, it was nearing the time of our tour of the extra apartments, so we had to take the little tram thing back to the main castle, which was kinda fun. Then we couldn't find where we were meeting our tour, but eventually we found them just as it was starting, so that was good. I'm so glad we went on that tour because we learned so much about Louis XV and XVI which I wouldn't have known as well otherwise (information that turned out very useful for my History of Paris and art history classes!). We saw the room where Mozart performed, a bathroom (!! yes! They never show you those, so I was happy to see one. I think it's because they're mostly in states of disrepair), and other really cool "secret" things. After the tour was over, we took a few photos outside of the chateau...





...but then we were pretty much done with Versailles (we were tireddd) so we got back on the train to return to Paris.

We'd wanted to go to the Musée Rodin and the Invalides after that, but we didn't check the closing times and both of them were closing as we arrived so we did neither (we did walk around the Invalides though). We also walked around the area in front of the Invalides, the "bridge with all the golden statues" as Mom told me she and Dad referred to it hahaha. We were pretty exhausted though, feet definitely tired, but we still had some time before dinner (it was like 5) so when Mom asked me what I wanted to do next I said "...go get some ice cream." So we did.

We went back to Le Malakoff at the Place du Trocadéro, since I'd seen a lot of dessert-type things on people's tables the last time I was there and figured the sweets had to be good there. I was NOT wrong :) We both got 2 scoops of ice cream, different flavors, and it was heavenly. I got vanilla and caramel and finally understood the meaning of the term "French vanilla." Deliciousssssss... oh, it was simply amazing. yum yum

From there, we stopped off to drop off some things at Mom's hotel and then went over early to my house so we could pack up some things for me. Mom had brought a suitcase full of summer-weather clothes of mine and we were going to exchange them for some winter-weather clothes I would (hopefully) not need anymore. So once she got there she was introduced to my family and I explained to them why we were there early and then we were left alone to pack things up. Isis, the cat, came in shortly, as expected, and Mom loved her. Of course, she is a wonderful R.C.-resembling cat.



Around 8, it was dinnertime. Now, I had prepared my mom for what was going to happen by telling her what always happened when I had dinner with them. But they completely blew me away by having a FANCY FORMAL dinner for her!! They really pulled out all the stops, I was amazed! First, we had a little pre-dinner glass of wine + sausage and chatted. Then, we moved, not into the kitchen like always, but THE OFFICE SLASH DINING ROOM APPARENTLY, where I have never seen anyone eat ever!! It was insane!! My whole family was there, kids too, and we had a really nice, fancy meal. Like different from all the normal meals, with different plates for the cheese and the dessert and everything. It was so, so crazy. They also made the potato gratin dish that I really liked one time, way nice of them. Then coffee after dinner. WHAT WAS UP WITH THIS FANCINESS! :O It was such a really nice sign of like, respect for Mom, which they totally did not have to do.

After she left, my host mom came by and told me she was "charming" and "nice." yay!!! Of course, there were bits of awkwardness, because the conversation had to be basically in English, which not everyone can speak all that well, but whatever. Overall, it went so much better than I had even expected. woooooo! I was happy, I hope Mom had a good time too.

And like... I think it actually made things better with my host family. I learned so many things about them I didn't know. Like right after she left, my host brother came into my room to ask me a question about something, which he had NEVER done before!

Monday, March 5

Disneyland daaaayyy! Okay, I should have had school that day. I actually had a literature midterm then too, but I had gotten an extension (miraculously, considering the orneriness of my teacher for that class) so I could skip everything. We met in the morning as usual and took the 6 to Charles de Gaulle-Etoile where we caught the RER A for Paris Disneyland! Now, Mom is a huge fan of everything Disney, so she was very excited about this, and I was eager to see what changes they'd make after having been to Tokyo Disneyland and both of the U.S. parks. The train ride out was pretty long, but we got there around 9:30 and the front gate wasn't open yet. I'd bought our tickets online (30 euros each with the Paris resident+offseason discount, yeaaah!) so we didn't have to do that, we just joined a line for the gate. They opened it around 9:45 and did that thing where you can go in and stand at the entrance for a particular section of the park until it "officially" opens at 10. I'd read that their Big Thunder Mountain Railroad is one of the best and thus most popular things there, so once they let us in we made our way over to Adventureland quickly and were one of the first behind the rope.

After some more waiting, they let the ropes fall and we could enter the rest of the park. We ran--literally ran, and we weren't alone!--for the Big Thunder queue entrance. It was so fun to walk freely up a queue instead of waiting in it! So I believe we were on the second, if not the first, train of the day for that. And everyone was right, it really is the best version of the ride. It takes you out onto its own little island where the ride happens, which is so cool! The way Paris Disneyland is set up is so different; Haunted Mansion is re-themed to fit in with Adventureland, for example. In fact, after we finished Big Thunder, we did Haunted Mansion next. The exterior looks completely different! I couldn't get over it. It was also a really nice redoing of the ride. So cool!

From there, we got a Fastpass for Peter Pan in Fantasyland, then went over to Tomorrowland to do Space Mountain, which was COMPLETELY different. It had upside down spirals! It was so intense and fast-paced, neither of us were expecting any of it! We got off the ride like "What WAS that?!" It was like no Space Mountain we'd ever ridden before, haha. But fun--glad we didn't do it AFTER lunch, though ;)

Right before lunch we rode Peter Pan (pretty much the same except the boats have 2 rows of seats) and that put us right in Fantasyland where the restaurant I'd made lunch reservations at, L'auberge de Cendrillon (Cinderella's Inn), was. Lunch was delicious! Both of us decided we wanted to splurge on lunch at a Disney park, because usually we go to the more budget-priced pizza/burger type places, so this time we went to one of the nicest restaurants in the park. Unfortunately, we were kind of seated in the middle of this room filled with families, which meant bored, restless kids jumping around in their seats, running around the entire restaurant, and generally being distracting. The food was wonderful but that was one thing that almost ruined everything; we were continually being distracted by the presence of all these kids. And what's the point of taking your kids to a nice place like this, anyway? Yes, the Cinderella theming is kid-oriented. But your kids would be just as happy at one of the pizza/burger places, you know! I think there should be "adult" seating and "family" seating, and that would be an ideal solution to this problem. Hmph.

But back to the food, cause it was amazing. First there was an appetizer buffet, which was delicious. The food here was all "French" so that was what everything was. Then we chose our main courses, and both of us got the steak plate, and then a dessert buffet (only I got the special Cinderella's slipper dessert, where they make a slipper out of white chocolate and fill it with chocolate cream and add other yummy things). It was soooo gooooood :)


Me outside the restaurant


With the food


Cinderella slipper!


By the carriage!

After lunch, we did things like exploring Sleeping Beauty castle (and seeing the DRAGON underneath!!! Yeah that's right, it was awesome)...


Sleeping Beauty castle


Dragon! roarrr

...Pirates of the Caribbean (inside a CASTLE building!!), Swiss Family treehouse, Alice in Wonderland maze...





...it's a small world, etc etc. Just wandering, it was really cool. The whole park is beaauuuutiful; it rivals DisneySea for park beauty. The castle is amazing too, the landscaping around the side is so cool: square trees!







We ran out of things to do around 5 or so though, and the park closed at 6 that day, so we just went home after that. I had to study for the two midterms I had the next day so I was fine with that. Of course, once I got home (around 7) I got into bed to take a nap, get up around midnight or so, and do some studying (not setting an alarm, thinking I'd wake up on my own)... and promptly woke up at 7 a.m. the next day!! Oh no!

Tuesday, March 6

So I decided I was going to skip French class and study for the midterms, literature and History of Paris. So I went to school and took those tests, and then met Mommy around 3:45 outside the IES center, which she had found successfully all on her own! She saw the inside of the school and all that and met a few of my friends who happened to be passing through, then we walked towards Denfert-Rochereau station to go visit the catacombs. First, though, we stopped off at the Monoprix on the corner and got a present for Bekah and Dad (Easter bunny chocolate). This turned out to be a mistake because the catacombs close at 4!! They were right across the street, we walked over but the guy wouldn't let us in because they'd just closed! It was 4:10! ooooh, so frustrating.

We didn't really have anything planned for if that hadn't worked out, so we went to the Latin Quarter so I could see if the restaurant where I'd eaten duck at that one time was still serving duck (so she could try it), but they'd changed the menu, and I didn't know where else duck would be served there, and she said she wasn't that hungry anyway, so we just went home, making plans to meet up the next morning right before her taxi came to get her.

Wednesday, March 7

In the morning before school I walked over to Mom's hotel, gave her back her camera, and waited with her until the taxi came to get her, and saw her off. It was another tearful goodbye, really sad... but this was a good halfway point between my time here, and after another 2 months I'll see her again. Still, I miss you Mommy! I had so much fun with you, thank you for visiting me! :)